Published on March 31st, 2018 | by adventuremag
PEAK WITHOUT NAME: 22 DAYS OF TENSION, SOLIDION AND SUFFERING
First stage of the project 6 Hard Xpeditions: the arduous climb of one of the largest, most imposing and isolated mountains of the Brazilian Southeast
It took years of planning and weeks of hard work for the documentary athletes Fernanda Lupo and Márcio Bortolusso to fulfill the old dream of reaching one of the most impressive and isolated peaks of the vast Serra da Mantiqueira, climbing its most extensive and vertiginous slope in a true saga that lasted for 22 days.
The southwest face of the “nameless peak” – a name by which such a mountain was called by ancient residents long before the arrival of the first outsiders and mountain climbing fever generated in part by modern social networks – was a dream considered impossible for many climbers by the painful and risky access to the base of its most challenging slopes, which so isolated discouraged any attempt to explore.
Although its summit had already been reached years earlier by other explorers, through a demanding walk on its less steep face, this imposing mountain remained one of the last of Brazil with more than two thousand meters of altitude with long rocky walls still without climbing routes.
After a failed attempt to climb this inhospitable mountain in 2009, when they were forced to leave the slopes of the peak after 11 days of heavy rains and lightning storm, the pair this time had the valuable help of climbers Diego Moreira and Kelvyn Medeiros, from the Climbing and Mountaineering Club of Angra dos Reis. “Irony of fate” (the believers would say in luck and chance), still approaching the forest Fernanda had his shoulder shifted, severe injury that in addition to the subsequent weeks of pain and forced rest, still left him out of the new climbing team. Or not…
Moved by the passion for nature and by incomprehensible yearnings for many, the determined group experienced strong emotions, enduring negative temperatures and severe pains, constantly negotiating with the hunger and the physical and mental fatigue, maintaining the good humor despite the days without bath and of the nights badly asleep and feeling the moods down because of the uncertainties and the demanding manual labor.
To better understand the suffering faced by climbers, even adopting minimalist techniques (faithful to the motto “Better to miss than enough”), the team needed 7 long days of complex navigation just to reach the foothills, carry around 170 kilos of equipment and groceries, and return – during exhaustive walks worthy of the Himalayan sherpa folk, literally climbing trees for a better view in the enclosed woods, crawling over cracks, crawling over unsteady roots in vertiginous walls, and balancing backpacks with dozens of kilos in shifts which exceeded 12 hours daily.
At constant risk, during the complex and delicate vertical work that lasted for a long 5 days of risky ascension, the climbers had to fix the security guards so far that possible falls would result in flights of more than 40 meters and, to further punish the motivation of the group, it rained. The bad weather forced them to lower the approximately 300 meters climb and the several hours of uneven track to wait for a new chance, at which point Diego and Kelvyn unfortunately had to return home due to other commitments.
And when all seemed lost, in an almost “celestial” twist (the believers would say in guardian angel), behold, Fernanda’s shoulder recovered after thirteen days at Base Camp and – after weeks of seemingly inhuman and fruitless dedication , filthy, slightly malnourished (they each lost 5 kg each) and with several cuts and bruises all over the body – the couple of documentary athletes decided to invest their last grams of energy in an insane journey that stretched dawn inside until completing exactly 24 uninterrupted hours of arduous climbing. Effort worth it. After all, forever Fernanda and Márcio will remember the spectacular sunset that their eyes have recorded from the summit of the majestic Pico No Nome.
The rest? Ah, the rest are stories that one day they will tell their future grandchildren.
KNOW THIS GREAT ADVENTURE!
Fernanda and Márcio have barely returned from one of the most intense adventures of their lives and, still physically and mentally punished after the 22 days of this hard work, in recent weeks have already traveled the South, Southeast and Midwest of Brazil and other daring challenges: an unprecedented row of hundreds of kilometers in a remote area of the mythical Amazon rainforest, traversing a route considered impossible even by experienced riverside and hunters, and one of the largest explorations of waterfalls in the world, the largest descent of Caninismo in Brazil, scientific expedition which in addition to conducting pioneering studies on one of the most important and isolated rivers of the Southeast still recorded for the first time one of the largest and most beautiful waterfalls in Brazil. Unprecedented adventures that are part of the 6 Hard Xpeditions project.
With 10 months duration, it is the realization of SIX EXTREME AND EXTREME EXPEDITIONS: high risk (constantly facing areas and dangerous situations), great physical and psychological exhaustion, only with human traction during the stages, high difficulty (activities that require technical skills), no support staff (no loaders and guides, etc.), non-stop (no breaks during each challenge), minimal logistics (boycotting pack animals, etc.) and, in sequence.
MEGA CHALLENGE NEVER BEEN DONE BY ANY ADVENTUREER, according to experts, it is one of the most important multi-sport events ever held, an extraordinary journey of more than 15,000 kilometers, with complex and costly logistics and the fruit of almost six years of meticulous preparation and hard training , an event that only became a reality thanks to the vision and confidence of Duracell, LG, Gore-tex and Brasil Kirin companies and dozens of other businessmen who collaborated directly with the viability of no less than 300 equipment and services, courses and trainings ranging from First Aid to Remote Areas, night dive and in caves to the unusual sessions of Dynamic Apnea loading stones on the seabed. “In 22 years working in the challenging Aventura segment, I have had the privilege of doing countless actions with good sponsors and supporters, many of whom have become great friends, but in this project we are really impressed by the great energy and trust that have been deposited by the excellent partners who believed in our seemingly insane ideas, “says Bortolusso, one of the authors of the project.
Do not miss out! To savor the best moments of the 6 Hard Xpeditions project, follow Fernanda and Márcio in their social networks (with photo albums, exclusive images, etc.), watch the web series about their incredible expeditions (soon, chapters that will turn into a documentary at the end of the project) and accompany the documentary-athletes for the Blog, a travel journal fueled by spectacular images and richly detailed accounts.